Proper Press

An honest assessment of where we've been, what we've become, and what deserves a place in our closets. This winter, we're thinking about rebuilding. I've been writing Laws of the Game for more than a decade now. The original premise was simple: understand the conventions of dressing well so that you can intelligently circumvent them. Know the rules before you break them. Over the years, I've written about fit, fabric, personal style, the slow death of the dress code, and the importance of dressing for the person you are—or, perhaps more importantly, the person you want to become. A lot...

Craig Schroeder reports from Pitti Uomo 110 in Florence: stripes return to tailoring, collars give way to knit tees, and relaxed ease defines summer 2026.

Bespoke is a garment built from a unique paper pattern drafted from your body. Made-to-measure modifies an existing block pattern to your measurements. Custom is a marketing word that means whatever the seller wants it to mean. Every tailor uses the three terms differently, and "bespoke" is not a legally protected term in the United States. Here is how to read past the label. What is the difference between bespoke, made-to-measure, and custom? Bespoke originated on Savile Row in the nineteenth century. The defining feature is the paper pattern: drafted from scratch for one client, refined across multiple structural fittings,...

What is the best fabric for a summer wedding suit? The honest answer is not the one most men reach for. Linen is the coolest cloth for the hottest day, but tropical wool and fresco are what the professionals choose for a serious summer wedding: nearly as cool, far more polished, and far less prone to wrinkling. Heavy worsted wool and anything with polyester in it belong in another season entirely. Here is the full tier list, plus the construction, color, and cut decisions that separate a wearable summer suit from a sweat trap. What is the best fabric for...

When should a groom order his wedding suit? The short answer: ninety days before the wedding is the floor, one hundred twenty days is comfortable, and one hundred eighty days is ideal. The longer answer is that the timeline is the single decision that determines whether your suit fits the way it should on the one day it has to. This guide walks it month by month, from engagement to aisle, and shows you what can flex and what cannot. When should I order my wedding suit? Ninety days from first appointment to wedding day is the minimum. One hundred...