Twice each year, the menswear world converges on Florence for Pitti Uomo: the industry's most influential gathering of designers, retailers, editors, and well-dressed enthusiasts. I just returned from Pitti Uomo 110, my third consecutive edition. If you want the short version: stripes returned to tailoring, the collar kept giving way to knits, and ease continued to win. Here is what I saw, and what it means for how you dress this summer.
What is Pitti Uomo?
Pitti Uomo is the twice-yearly menswear trade fair held in Florence, Italy. More than a trade show, it has long served as a barometer for where classic menswear is headed. After several years of uncertainty, its energy and cultural relevance have returned in full force. Having now attended three consecutive editions, I have watched that resurgence firsthand, and this season offered one of the clearest statements yet.
Trend one: Stripes return to tailoring
This season, one idea quietly rose above the rest: stripes returned to tailoring with confidence. From bold banker stripes to softened linen variations, they appeared on everything from relaxed double-breasted suits to sharply cut single-breasted jackets. I wore a black-and-white stretch linen stripe suit from Commonwealth Proper throughout the week, cut and made here, not because it felt fashionable, but because it reflected what great tailoring has always done best: create presence through restraint.
Trend two: The collar gives way
Just as telling was what men chose to wear beneath their jackets. The traditional shirt continued to give way to simple knit T-shirts and, increasingly, ribbed tank tops. I alternated between both throughout Florence, just as I did last summer, and the effect is unmistakable. Removing the collar changes the attitude of tailoring entirely, making even a structured suit feel effortless without sacrificing sophistication.
Trend three: Ease over formality
The best-dressed men at Pitti weren't trying to be noticed: they simply understood proportion, texture, and confidence. Tailoring continues to move away from rigidity and toward ease, where beautiful fabrics, relaxed silhouettes, and thoughtful styling matter more than formality. That is a direction Commonwealth Proper has embraced for years: clothing that feels as natural over an afternoon espresso as it does at an evening dinner, proving that true style rarely announces itself.
How to wear these trends this summer
You do not need to chase any of this. The point of these trends is restraint, not novelty. Choose a stripe with intent, in linen or stretch linen for warm months, and let the pattern do the talking. Try a fine-gauge knit tee or a ribbed tank under an unstructured jacket in place of a shirt. Favor softer construction and natural fabrics that move with you. Done well, the result feels effortless, which is the entire idea.
Key takeaways from Pitti Uomo 110
- Stripes are back in tailoring, from banker stripes to soft linen variations.
- The shirt collar is giving way to knit tees and ribbed tanks worn under jackets.
- Softly constructed, relaxed tailoring continues to replace rigid formality.
- The best-dressed men prioritize proportion, texture, and confidence over attention.
Frequently asked questions
What are the biggest menswear trends from Pitti Uomo 110?
The three defining trends were stripes returning to tailoring, the shirt collar giving way to knit tees and ribbed tanks, and a continued move toward relaxed, softly constructed suits. Together they point to tailoring that feels easier and more natural.
How do you wear a striped suit without looking loud?
Choose a stripe with restraint and let the pattern carry the outfit on its own. A black-and-white or tonal stripe in linen reads confident rather than costume, especially in a relaxed summer silhouette.
Can you wear a t-shirt under a suit jacket?
Yes. A fine-gauge knit tee or ribbed tank under an unstructured jacket is one of the season's defining looks. Removing the collar makes even a structured suit feel effortless while keeping it sophisticated.
Where can I get a custom summer suit made in the United States?
Commonwealth Proper builds custom made-to-measure suits with master tailors across five showrooms: Philadelphia, Pittsburgh, Atlanta, Washington DC, and New York. Custom suits begin at $2,450, and summer fits can be booked now.
Pitti is a preview. Your summer is the real occasion. Our master tailors are booking summer fits now across all five showrooms. Custom suits begin at $2,450, made the right way, since 2008.
